Only got one done before I ran out of light but it only took about 30-45 minutes and that's with doing it 2 times because I didn't have one piece in the slot the first time. When you reassemble the actuator verify that the piece is in the slot by pulling the cable for the door handle a few times. Best $7 repair ever.

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Has anyone gotten a quote from a dealer on this? Both my front door actuators are kaput. It looks like a job I could do but between work, school, and the fact that I live in an apartment complex with world's steepest and tightest parking garage with all my tools in storage.......it's not a job I relish jumping into.

Or alternatively suggest a shop in the No. VA area that does these types of jobs? Not that any shop couldn't do it... just may be a bit out of there usual area of expertise and don't want to be a guinea pig.

Thanks!!
- Jeff

You might check with your local car audio shop. Basically, they deal with these all the time when installing key-less entry, etc. I had mine done on my LX470 for a very reasonable price.

Sadly car audio shops are just as rare around here as trusted 4x4 shops. Plenty of "Safe & Sounds" types. Years ago I had a custom enclosure built for my Ram and the one shop that met the "goldilocks" test (trustworthy, good work, decent pricing) was bought out.

You are right though, just about any audio shop that does remote starts etc..., should be somewhat familiar in the workings of door innards.

Thanks for pointing that out!
Enjoy your Labor Day!
- Jeff

Every F250/350/Excursion owner has been dealing with this since the early 2000's. If you take the end cap off the motors, remove the small square coated metal plate that conducts the current, wrap it in tin foil and put it back in the slot it will hit harder than it ever did when new and lasts for years. Now the aftermarket supplies the complete units at a fraction of what the dealer used to get for them. They used to call it the 5 cent fix. Others cut a penny into the same size and used that.

Did the repair on all four doors of my 4th gen many years ago. This is a great write up for the 5th gen. Just did my drivers door in 40 minutes. The 08 and 16 lock assemblies look the same.

Sick write-up. The LAAAWDZ work. Just curious when did everyones actuator motor die? How many miles on the ODO?

Well, my driver's door died today: I hit the fob to lock, and the vehicle didn't chirp. Hit it again, and again... opened the drivers door, hit the lock button up on top, all the other doors locked, shut the drivers' door, checked to see if it was locked, it wasn't, so I used my key to lock, then hitting the fob button, it did chirp.

Mine's a '15, has about 85k on the odo....

I was just quoted about $400 per door...they said the part was 325 and .5 hours in labor...WTF? 325 part??? The lady at my local dealership told me to call Toyota since I already had one done and now have two more out. Is there no TSB for this yet?

Passenger front at 37K (they covered under good will warranty)
Drivers door and rear driver side at 50K (will not cover as of now)

the dealership isn't going to take apart the actuator to replace the motor, they have to replace the entire actuator so that's why the part is so expensive. also, that replacement actuator will also die, they haven't solved the problem (i think someone here was on their 5th set of actuators)

you don't have to be skilled or experienced to replace the motor, even if it's the first time you've attempted to do something on your vehicle you shouldn't have any issue if you follow the writeup and videos


My driver's side failed around 35k miles, passenger around 45k miles and rear doors started sounding sluggish at same time around 45k (i didn't bother with warranty because i knew they would just replace with the same part that will faila gain)

Interestingly...

The next day, mine began working again. Has worked since. I'm still going to order a motor for it and will have on-hand for when it'll eventually be needed...

Want to make sure I'm buying the right part: when I click the original link now, there are various options (and part number is slightly different - PC vs PT) - am I buying the "flat shaft - standard length" that it defaults to? I'm assuming it's not round shaft, given the write-up, but I don't know what length?

Alternatively, searching for the exact part number on AMZN gets this result: https://www.amazon.com/FC-280PT-2212.../dp/B00CM10NE8

Would that work?

Sorry for the noob question, but don't want to order the wrong part and realize it when I've got the panel off and actuator out!

Thanks in advance.

yep flat shaft - standard length

A bit off topic - but mind sharing where that view is from? Would love to go visit, and looks like you're from Houston so hopefully not too far.